Your pavers are not worn out. They are dirty and unsealed.

Sealing is not paint. It soaks into the paver, hardens the joint sand, and locks the surface so it stops absorbing water, dirt and organic material. That is why a sealed surface resists algae, holds its joints together and keeps its color under Gulf Coast UV, while a bare paver absorbs everything that lands on it.

Less time than the label written for a northern climate suggests. Our UV load is high most of the year and summer brings near daily afternoon rain, and both attack sealer. A west facing driveway on a barrier island will not match a shaded inland lanai. Our sealings carry a 3 year warranty and we set expectations honestly based on your exposure.

Wet look brings color up hard and looks dramatic, and it shows every repair, replacement paver and dye lot difference. Natural matte reads more like stone and hides variation. On older driveways where pavers have been swapped over the years, matte usually looks better. We bring samples to every estimate so you can see both on your own pavers.

Before, always. Sand goes in first so the sealer can bind it into a firm joint. Sanding after sealing leaves loose grains sitting on a finished surface, which does nothing structurally and looks poor. If someone proposes doing it the other way around, that is a real warning sign.

Efflorescence. Moisture inside a young concrete paver dissolves free lime and carries it to the surface, where it dries as a white film. It appears and fades seasonally for the first few years and it is not a defect. It must be cleared before sealing, because sealing over it traps the haze permanently under the finish.

Almost always irrigation rust. Well and reclaimed water in this region carries dissolved iron. When it sprays onto light colored pavers and dries in the sun the iron oxidizes and bonds to the surface, producing arcs that match your sprinkler pattern. It needs rust specific chemistry, not pressure, and it must be removed before sealing.

No, and it can make it worse. Rust is a chemical bond rather than surface dirt, and high pressure on a raw paver opens the pore so the next round of iron grips harder. It also risks etching the paver face. Rust needs the correct product, proper dwell time, then neutralizing and rinsing.

Because pressure washing removed the color of the algae without killing it. The organism roots into the pore of the paver and regrows. Under a screen cage there is very little drying sun, so it comes back fast. We treat it chemically first, then clean, then re-sand and seal, which is what changes the interval.